Waters: Response to fire is why I live in Berkeley

Alice Waters, Chez Panisse, June 21, 2013

Alice Waters at Chez Panisse on Thursday June 20, 2013. The Berkeley restaurant re-opens to the public today after reconstruction following a fire on March 8 that destroyed a significant portion of the façade. Photo: Emilie Raguso

Alice Waters admits there have been times — many times in fact — when she and her team have considered relocating Chez Panisse.

“We have thought about moving,” she said on Thursday last week, as, all around her, cooks and carpenters, contractors and chefs made final preparations for two sold-out fundraising dinners that were to take place at Chez Panisse the next day. The iconic restaurant, which re-opens to the public today after being closed for reconstruction following a serious fire in March, is in a building that was originally designed as a home and, with its various nooks and crannies and rabbit-warren-like layout, is hardly conducive to housing a world-class restaurant.

On every significant Chez Panisse anniversary, Waters has discussed with her staff whether to move somewhere else, she said.

“We were going to do it when we were 20, then 30, because it can be such a struggle here. We dreamed about having a large space, like they have at Camino,” she said referring to the Oakland restaurant co-owned by Chez Panisse alum Russell Moore, “with a big old fire, a place for teaching and room for interns to gather.”

Chez Panisse, June 21, 2013

Workers putting last-minute touches to the exterior of Chez Panisse on Thursday June 20,2013. Some of the wisteria that covered the front of the restaurant has been carefully removed and is being revived off-site before it will be returned. Photo: Emilie Raguso

But, 42 years later, it is still to the rambling, shingled wood building at 1517 Shattuck Avenue in North Berkeley that hundreds of thousands of devoted customers and eager Chez Panisse newbies from around the globe flock for a taste of Waters’ original, slow-food-inspired Californian cuisine.

“The more we talked about it, the more we realized the charm of this place is this place,” she said. “It has all these irregularities, and it doesn’t all fit. But it feels like a home for us. So we decided to invest in it.”

That decision was reached after the first fire at the restaurant. It was March 1982 and the conflagration was described as coming “within 10 minutes of destroying the building.” Afterwards, Waters redesigned the space with architect Christopher Alexander and cabinetmaker Kip Mesirow. The partially burned wall that had separated the kitchen from the dining room was removed, creating an early example of an open-plan restaurant kitchen.

Mesirow was just one of many of Waters’ friends and supporters who came to her aid once more after the March 8 fire. And, again, it was decided to turn a crisis into an opportunity. The restaurant has been given an extensive spit and polish, with new paint, sanded floors, and the addition of a new, private bussing station and a new bathroom.

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Staff in the Chez Panisse kitchen on Thursday June 20 preparing for two fundraising dinners being held at the restaurant and café to benefit the Edible Schoolyard Foundation. Photo: Emilie Raguso

Most significantly, Mesirow drew the blueprints for a new elevated dining alcove. The original one needed to be ripped out because of fire damage. Beautifully crafted in salvaged redwood without the use of a single nail, with lovely, custom-made Craftsman-style copper light fixtures, it is likely to be the most sought-after spot for customers making reservations in the coming months.

[Berkeleyside will publish photographs of the newly redone interiors of Chez Panisse on Wednesday.]

While the fire has provided the opportunity to refresh the restaurant and make small, functional tweaks, the changes are subtle. For, if the Chez Panisse crew knows one thing, it is that its customers, particularly those who are local, feel very proprietorial about the restaurant. “They kept telling us, ‘don’t change anything,'” said restaurant spokesperson David Prior.

Local residents also offered enormous support.

“When something bad happens here people rally,” said Waters. “It reminded me of the reason I want to live in Berkeley. There are lots of like-minded people here who share the same values. I feel very lucky to be the recipient of this kind of community support.”

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Red currants being prepared at Chez Panisse for fundraising dinners in the restaurant and café on Thursday June 20, 2013. Photo: Emilie Raguso

Waters describes how people walking by the restaurant while it was being rebuilt would ask if there was anything they could do to help. With tears in her eyes, she recounts how a young girl took it upon herself to organize a lemonade stand with Meyer lemons from her garden, and brought Waters a check for the $37 she raised. Waters used the money to buy a small wooden stand which is used in the restaurant.

Fans from further afield made their support known, too. The Michelin-starred Noma, run by chef René Redzepi in Copenhagen and regarded as one of the best restaurants in the world, sent a gift box that included pickled capers and lingonberries, as well as bottles of special beer.

“I was touched,” said Waters. “I know of them of course, and would love to eat there, but I don’t know them personally.”

The Cheese Board Collective across the street on Shattuck helped out by feeding the teams of staffers who made themselves available to do whatever work was necessary.

“Staff members revealed talents that we didn’t know about,” said Waters, “whether it was master woodworkers, polishing copper or oiling wood. We discovered who we couldn’t live without at the restaurant — and they were not necessarily the managers.”

The forced hiatus from the normal working schedule at Chez Panisse in the wake of the fire also provided a chance to take a fresh look at some of its day-to-day practices.

“We had a most interesting discussion about table placement in the café,” said Waters, explaining that she hadn’t loved the position of every table. “Some of them were really undesirable.” Gathering in groups, the team came up with some new solutions and considered other elements of the restaurant with a new eye.

The menu at the café has been redesigned, and will continue to evolve over the next month or so, said Waters. There is now a hot dessert option and smaller portions of pasta that can be ordered as  first courses. There are also more vegetables as side dishes.

“I always want to be able to eat twice as many of my peas,” she said.

The café wine list has been shortened to 10-15 bottles, so they are “really good with the meal.” And the bread basket has been changed a little. A brand new Montague stove has been moved in and storage areas cleared out.

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The bread basket at the Chez Panisse café has been changed in line with a new menu in the wake of the fire and rebuilding. Photo: Emilie Raguso

During the months when the restaurant was closed some staff took temporary chef jobs elsewhere or worked on the farms that supply Chez Panisse with produce. When they returned, there were more new suggestions for Waters to consider.

The reorganization also offered the opportunity properly to introduce newer employees to the whys and wherefores of Chez Panisse, as well as its history.

“Anyone who is new here has the hardest time understanding why we do things the way we do — like why are the glasses kept in that particular way,” Waters said.

Insurance money and savings have covered most of the work done to rebuild the restaurant, but Waters said there has also been a conscious decision to invest in the place once more to ensure its longevity.

“We worried it would burn down. This building is not built with bricks and mortar,” she said. Now the restaurant is equipped with more sprinklers and fire extinguishers and, Waters said, the risks have been addressed.

“Before the first fire we were doing everything by the seat of our pants,” she said. “We didn’t feel we were professionals.”

Asked when the moment came when she felt she and her team were professionals, Alice Waters said: “For a long time it felt like we had never quite arrived. But by the time Chez Panisse turned 20 we weren’t shooting from the hip anymore.”

Which is not to say Waters still isn’t still open to learning more in her area of expertise.

Describing her relationship with her team, Waters said she is “definitive” and “a critic, but in a good way.” She always encourages her staff to think for themselves, she explained, asking them not only to do things, but to know why they are doing them. But if she’s making a lunch or dinner for friends she knows just where to turn. “I ask five to 10 people at the restaurant how they would prepare something if I’m cooking at home.”

Related:
Chez Panisse sets opening date after fire [04.30.13]
Chez Panisse closed indefinitely, major rebuild needed [03.19.13]
Chez Panisse rebuilds, focuses on re-opening [03.13.13]
Fire at Chez Panisse damages front of restaurant [03.08.13]

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  • guest

    Congratulations to Alice & Crew! I’ve always enjoyed her place. Consistently producing a quality dining experience is as difficult as it is rare. And no doubt, worthy of a little self reverence…but just a little.

  • http://jpstillwater.blogspot.com Jane Stillwater

    I’ll be eating dinner there on July 1, and am totally looking forward to it. And since there will be five of us (for a birthday celebration), perhaps we will be seated at the new table you described. Sounds wonderful.

  • xec

    World class restaurant..bah! It’s not even close to The French Laundry or any other REAL world class restaurent . Alice Waters isn’t even a chief.

  • fran haselsteiner

    Everyone is entitled to his or her opinion. Except that you are wrong, wrong, wrong.

  • JWong

    It’s her restaurant. She certainly is a chief.

  • guest

    This ‘world class’ debate is a pickled herring.

    CP/Waters IS top class in the world WE live in: Berkeley, social activism. In our world, Water’s lead the rediscovery of locally growing and raising what you eat. Most everywhere else, where food is an art, this was never forgotten, and you wouldn’t have gotten much attention for ‘rediscovering it’.

    Waters also locally pioneered (with others) pairing nutrition with the value added moral beneifits of of sustainablilty, humane care of animals, etc.. Add in a school yard garden visited by Prince Charles and you have the recipe for a beloved regional hero.

    CP/Waters IS NOT in the Michelin Guides top 500 restaruants, if you’re counting stars. And Googled insights won’t change that. Their criteria does not evealuate the ethical underpinnings of the food or the service. Nor would much of CP’s fan base be happy in a 3 star establishment; too stuffy, too expensive, tiny portions, percieved arrogance of the staff, etc. etc. etc.

    So let us rejoice in what we DO have. A great warm and welcoming place, ever conducive to the enjoyment of good food, good drink and good friends.

  • AIA East Bay

    It’s marvelous to see how a community pulls together to quickly bring back a local favorite. Local architect Shizue Seo, AIA was also part of the team.

  • xec

    And if you actually knew better, you would be saying I am right, right, right. Chez Panisse is nothing short then a bastardize attempted at being a french borough where the most original thing ever on the menue was fruit salad.The line-up is so stagnates and unoriginal that they couldn’t keep their single Michelin star.

    And please, don’t insult all the chiefs in the world who actually WORK in kitchens. Waters has not and never has been a chief and from day one has had to rely on experienced people run her kitchen. Even watching that 60 minutes episode, its obvious she’s never learned how to property use a knife, and as laughable as it is that she actually has the audacity to fry an egg in a log burning stove( that’s really helping the carbon footprint) it was simply disgusting for her to suggest that she would want shark fin soup as her last meal and only back peddled after-the -fact. For the person who coined the phrase ” food is political” you would expect them to actually be smart enough NOT to support genocide on an endangered species.

    Chez Panisse: phony food for phony people.

  • xec

    If you actually been to a so called three star restaurant, you would know they don’t serve you a single tiny portion, but a variety over a dozen platters. I ate at both ElBulli and Norma , both considered the two best restaurants in the world ,and far superior then a fruit salad with some goat cheese on top.

  • guest

    Oh, I actually been [sic], and been again and again…

    I’ve paid with dollars, pounds, euros and I still have a yen to go back to Koju. The first time I went to the French Laundry, it was a french laundry. I picked up my Dad’s shirts, he worked at the Veteran’s Home (boxed, medium starch).

    But getting back to the point: Seeing ‘stars’ (one, two or three) is in the eyes of the beholder.

    …for the few unfamiliar with your examples:
    http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/jul/30/el-bulli-closes-ferran-adria
    http://www.menupages.com/restaurants/normas

  • guest
  • eriksf

    I’ve had some of the best meals of my life at Chez Panisse. I remember sitting up in that little alcove in the cafe above the front door with friends drinking champagne, eating wonderful food and watching a torrential rainstorm outside. One of many great experiences there. I have no interest in starred restaurants, but I am interested in beautifully prepared food and Chez Panisse has managed to do that for many years.

  • guest

    >Everett & Jones
    >Spenger’s
    Go back to the 80’s. Those two, while nostalgic have passed their glory days.

  • guest

    >2013
    >being this much of a troll

    GB2 2003

  • guest

    Well said. I too have treasured memories of times at Chez Panisse…spanning four decades and a cast of many lovers, one wife and two kids. Pagnol would be proud of this place.

  • xec

    And you should go back to the 70’s when you practically soiled your pants when you had your first $45 dollar goat cheese salad with a bowl shark fin soup on the side.

  • xec

    When was the last time you saw her actually cook? !972?. She’s neither a chief or even a cook in her restaurant. She’s a glorified maitre d’.

  • guest

    This is a wonderful prank! The written accent is spot on…and I wouldn’t be surprised if Alice knows who this is and is laughing hysterically with them.

    “…nothing short then a bastardize attempted at being a french borough…”

    Priceless!

  • guest

    Either that or some one had their résumé returned, unopened.

  • guest

    “soiled your pants”

    LOL, but let’s not spoil the illusion by going de trop!