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AS B-Dama

Set back in a cacophonous corner of Swan’s Marketplace is AS B-Dama and its steaming bowls of udon soup, crisp karaage, picturesque sushi and, if you’re lucky, a special bowl of uni chawanmushi. The savory steamed egg custard comes adorned with a generous portion of briny, rich uni and earthy maitake mushrooms. (It’s not on the regular menu, so you’ll want to make sure to look out for it on the specials board or just ask the kitchen.) Other must-tries? The agedashi tomatoes, tempura-fried and served in a subtle yet delicious dashi broth; tori karaage, seemingly weightless fried chicken; and anything else on the specials menu. Pro-tip: The afternoon lunch “sets” offer the best value in all of Swan’s — for $10 or less, you can get a main like katsu curry or sushi rolls with miso soup, salad, rice and often a bowl of sautéed vegetables as well. AS B-Dama is at 907 Washington St. (at Ninth), Oakland.